A behind the scene look, how to set up your booth for a craft show.

You’ll start off with a blank space.
Unless you order booth extras such as carpet, tables, table skirts, chairs etc.

Best to start off with hanging your samples/fliers on the walls of your booth.

Have gorgeous quilts? Use them as table covers.

Try out a few layouts as you’re spreading things out.

Use stands to maximize the table’s space.

Take boxes, flip them, cover with a pretty quilt and you’re got a one of a kind stand.

Play with placing your samples and wares.

Carousel stands are a great way to save on space.

Bring or rent a dolly, it will save you valuable time on trips into your booth.

Have a machine you want to demo?

Have everything set up in advance so folks can easily get a feel for the machines.

Bring your tools for any last minute adjustments.

Hang fliers so folks know what they are looking at and can refer to it.

Think about having enough clearance to walk around and several ways in and out of your booth.

Front of your tables is prime real-estate, use it!

A big thank you to ‘Always Quilting’ for letting me tag along!

Check out Always Quilting web site:
www.alwaysquiltingonline.com
To visit the store:
4230 Olympic Avenue
San Mateo, CA 94403
Phone: 650-458-8580

Bring fabrics to cover your booth at the end of the day.

The San Mateo Sewing and Quilt Show is FREE to attend!
You can find more information about the Quilt, Craft & Sewing Festival

Enjoy!

 You can find: How to: Almond Joy Layer Cake – Part 1

Place parchment paper around your cake stand.
It will keep your surface clean.
After you’re done decorating the cake just pull out.

Use the time until the cake cools down to spread the almonds on a baking sheet and let it toast for 12 minutes.
Once done, let cool.

In a saucepan, combine 3/4 cup cream.

Add 1/4 cup granulated sugar.

Add a pinch of salt, let simmer, stirring, over medium heat until the sugar is dissolved.
Should take approximately 3 minutes.

Remove from heat and stir in 2 tsp. vanilla and 3 packed cups coconut.

Fold until get a consistent mix.

When cool, fold in 1 1/2 cups almonds.

Keep folding until you get a consistent mix.

We deviated from the recipe here by making the weeped cream at this point.
Use 2 1/4 cups cream.

Put in a bowl or a mixer bowl.

Add 1/3 cup confectioners’ sugar.

Whip until stiff.

Place you cake on a flat surface.

Remove parchment paper.

Split the cake layers to make 4 layers.
Cut each cake to 2.
We used Rachel Ray’s tip on how to cut and it worked like a charm:
“Use a long serrated knife to slice about 1 inch into the layer, turning as you cut, until you’ve gone all the way around.
Repeat, cutting deeper into the layer until it’s evenly sliced in half.
(Rookie mistake: trying to slice straight through— crooked city!)”

Place 1 layer cut side up on a cake stand and spread with 1 cup of the coconut-almond mixture.

We deviated from the recipe by adding some of the whipped cream on top of the coconut-almond mixture between each layer.

Place the second layer cut side down and spread with 1 cup more of the mixture and whipped cream.

Repeat with the remaining cake layers and filling.
Cover the cake with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 4 hours to firm up.

Sprinkle the top with remaining almonds.

Remove parchment paper from around your cake stand and wipe any access cake.

Finally the cake is done and looking beautiful, like a work of art.

Time for taste test…

This is one of the best cakes we’ve ever tasted.
The birthday girl thought the same 🙂

Enjoy!

 You can find: How to: Almond Joy Layer Cake – Part 1

Let’s create something!

My friend saw this cake in the magazine and we thought we’d give it a go.
This is a test run before her cute little daughter’s birthday.
With Valentine’s Day fast approaching you may want to make this amazing cake for your sweetheart!

To see the article online on Rachael Ray magazine:
http://www.rachaelraymag.com/Recipes/almond-joy-layer-cake

Ingredients

• 2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
• 1 stick (4 oz.) unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
• 3 oz. semisweet chocolate, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
• 2 1/4 cups granulated sugar
• 4 tsp. pure vanilla extract
• 1/2 tsp. salt plus a big pinch
• 3 eggs
• 1 1/2 cups flour
• 1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. baking soda
• 1 bag (14 oz.) sweetened shredded coconut (4 packed cups)
• 2 cups sliced almonds
• 3 cups heavy cream
• 1/3 cup confectioners’ sugar

Start off by Preheating your oven to 325°.
Use two 8-inch-by-2-inch round cake pans.

Place your cake pan over the parchment paper and mark.
(bottom of the cake pan)

Cut and place parchment paper inside both cake pans.
Butter the parchment paper.

Bring 2/3 cup water to a boil, in a medium saucepan.
Whisk in the 2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder until smooth.

Whisk in the butter 1 stick (4 oz.) unsalted cut into 8 pieces

We forgot to cut the butter, but that’s ok it’ll be just fine.

Whisk in the 3 oz. semisweet chocolate over low heat until melted.

Should take, about 2 minutes but since we forgot to cut the butter it was more like 4-5 minutes.

Almost there…

Remove from the heat.

Whisk in 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

We chose to use a separate bowl instead of the saucepan.

Add 2 tsp. vanilla and 1/2 tsp. salt.

Add 3 eggs.
Whisk in 1 egg at a time.
Beat it well after each egg addition.

Mixture should look like this.

In a large bowl, stir together the 1 1/2 cups of flour.

Add 1 1/2 tsp. baking powder.

Add 1 tsp. baking soda

Pour in the chocolate mixture until smooth.

Stir in 1 packed cup sweetened shredded coconut.

Mix it together.

Mixture should look like this.

Divide the batter between the two cake pans.

Bake on 325° in the lower third of the oven for 35 minutes or until firm in the center.

Let cool in the pans on racks for 10 minutes, then invert onto racks to cool completely.

You can find:How To: Almond Joy Layer Cake – Part 2

Let’s create something!

Buttons can be used for so many things.
To advertise something, as a focal piece of a broach, the possibilities are limitless.

As you open this Button Maker box you will find:
Instructions page

Various supplies that are needed to make your button.
This will enable you to create 72 buttons.

Button maker machine.

Two trays marked 1 and 2.

Nine pages filled with round circle shapes printed graphics.

I choose to use a Washi Japanese paper to create my button.

You can audition on the paper what part you would like to use.
As well as how many buttons you can get out of it.

The box comes with a circle template but that was no where to be found at this point so I made my own template.
I cut out one of the graphics circles.

Center the template.
Make sure your design is slightly smaller.
The edges of your artwork will form around the button.

Trace and cut your paper, your artwork.

To start creating the button, we will use tray 1.

In tray 1, put metal button cover with rounded sides facing up.

On top of that, put your artwork.

On top of that, put plastic cover.

Insert tray 1 into the button machine when the bar with handle on top is raised.

Slide tray 1 in.

Twist handle clockwise.
Stop when you hear a pop sound.

Twist handle counter-clockwise.
This will cause the bar to raise up.
Button parts stay inside the Button Maker machine.
Take out tray 1.

Take tray 2.

Take metal button backing with hole in center and place inside tray 2 with edges facing up.

Insert tray 2 into the Button Machine when the bar with handle on top is raised.

Slide tray 2 in.

Twist handle clockwise.
Stop when you hear a pop sound.

Twist handle counter-clockwise.
This will cause the bar to raise up.
Button is now in tray 2.
Take out tray 2.

Front of button is now finished.

Turn your button to the back side.

Snap plastic backing, pin into hole in button.

Snap pin into plastic backing.

Make sure you insert the part that doesn’t open!

Your button is now complete.
You can use fabric, magazine clipping or draw your own artwork.

Happy New Year!

To view another technique of how to create your own button: How To: Make a Button Using Your Fabric
To view another technique of how to create your own button: How To: Make a Button Using Your Fabric, Self Cover Buttons

Let’s create something!

Came across “Put a Serger in My Stocking Contest” on www.PrudentBaby.com
As I would love to put my hands on a serger I decided to give it a go.

Unfortunately, this was not the winning stocking 🙁

Start of with a drawing of a stocking.
I digitized it on PE-Design Next and added a few Christmas teamed designs.

Hoop your stabilizer and fabric.
Optional, spray starch to keep your fabric nice and crisp.
I use, Mary Ellen’s Best Press, The Clear Starch Alternative.

As this embroidery is done on the bigger hoop and it has a number of designs, start of by selecting the basting option.
This will help the fabric from pulling at one spot or misaligned embroidery.
It’s best to select a similar thread color to your fabric color.

This is the base stocking with all the embroidery designs added.
The software helps with sizing down and moving the designs around until you are happy with the result.

Start Embroidering.

All the designs were Embroidered.

Time to cut all the tread connectors.

Print your stocking base.

Cut your stocking base and use it as a template to cut the other pieces of fabric needed.

Cut out your Embroidered front stocking.

Use a double layer of low loft batting.
Trace and cut.

Cut a matching color fabric for the inside of your stocking.

Select a coordinating, in this stocking a Christmas related fabric was chosen, trace and cut.
Remember, this one needs to be a mirror image, so cut fabric with toe facing the other direction.

Base stitch around to keep your 3 layers from shifting.
Repeat for front.

To attach the front and back of stocking, use bias tape.
Fold under at edge so there are no raw edges.

Start by adding the bias tape to the top of your front and back of the stocking.

Put your back of the stocking under the front and pint the bias tape around.
For the stocking, a one step attaching bias tape was used.
See how to attach bias tape in two steps on the apron project.

This is how it will look.
When you make your own bias tape or use a thinner bias tape it will be easier to go around curves.

Use a ribbon, in this case a Ric-Rac Ribbon in coordinating color to create a loop to hang your stocking.

Add ribbon to the back of your stocking. Saw on the same sewing line you attached bias tape.

Your bag is now complete.

Happy Holidays!
Let’s create something!

 You can find: How to: Diaper Bag Kit – Part 1

Turns out the top side of the bag doesn’t match the lining side nor the sides of the bag.
Measure and mark where you need to stitch.
(Ignore instruction to stitch by seam allowance.)

Open part of the seam of the lining.
I didn’t want to take all  the stitches out as the corners were perfect.

Add a piece of fabric in coordinating color making the top side of bag the correct size.
Make sure the seams are on the inside (hidden inside the bag).
Try and get it as even as you can on both sides.

Make sure size of top of bag and lining are the same.

Another view.

How it looks on the right side of the fabric.

Pin top of bag to lining.

Open the zipper so it’s out of the way.

Stitch over zipper in a straight line on the edge.

View from the other side.

Moving on to the straps.
Measure and mark 4 inches from the size of the bag on both sides.

Attach straps on your marking. Use 1/2 inch seam allowance.
Make sure straps are not twisted.

View from the other side.
You may want to reinforce your stitches.
Stay inside your seam allowance.

How it should look so far.

Make sure the sides of your bag are the correct size.
In this case 4.5 inches.

Insert your lining into your bag.

I find it helpful to pin first with a few pins, just to make sure everything is where it’s supposed to be.

Turn bag and lining inside out.

Pin and stitch all around the top of the bag, using 1/2 inch seam allowance.
Take extra care of your corners.

Turn bag to the right side.
Use the opening at the bottom of lining and zipper.

Measure 1/4 inch for top stitch.

How it should look.

Time to close the opening at the bottom of lining which we used for turning the bag.

With raw edges of fabric turned inside, top stitch the 6 inches.
Use 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Your bag is now complete.
Final touches, cut any loose thread.

You can find: How to: Diaper Bag Kit – Part 1

Let’s create something!

Ever come across a kit at the store and think, would it be easy or difficult to make?

This is what you can expect to find in the kit:
A basic instructions page

Pre-cut fabric pieces that will need to be assembled.
It’s nice that all the pieces of fabric are pre-serged.

Start off by folding and ironing 1/2 inch off top and bottom of the pockets towards the back.

Top stitch with 3/8 inch seam allowance.

Start working on the side panel of the bag by marking 4 inch on both sides.

Pin when lining up top pockets to marked line on side panel. Both pieces right side of fabric facing up.
Stitch bottom of pockets to side panel with 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Mark center point on bottom on wrong side of fabric, of front, back and side pieces.

This next part should have been straight forward. Unfortunately, not so much…
Attach with pins right sides together of front and side panel.

Stitch around with  1/2  inch seam allowance.

Repeat for back panel of the bag.

The lining of the bag is mostly pre-assembled in this kit.
The zipper is in place and attached to sides of lining as well as two inside pockets.

Turn your attention to bottom of lining.

Fold corners of lining right sides together.

Pin and stitch corners of lining.
Repeat on both lining bottom pieces.

It helps if you put the lining corners one inside the other.

Pin around the outside of the lining.

Notice to pin in place the fabric when some of it is turned (right side of fabric).

Since this diaper bag is square at the top, pay extra attention to lining up the top part.
Don’t pin by the side on the lining.

Stitch with 1/2 inch seam allowance.
Leave 6 inch opening at the bottom center of the lining.

Assuming that all pieces of fabric in the kit are to the exact size they should be… big mistake.
Had to take some seams out, measure, add pieces of fabric and reassemble.

See part 2 to how it all worked out in the end.
You can find: How to: Diaper Bag Kit – Part 2

Happy Thanksgivings everyone!
Brother started ‘Dream 1000 Project’ by requesting folks to make a bag to donate to the kids affected by the Tsunami and Earthquake in Japan.

 You can find: How To: Dream 1000 Project Bag – Part 1

To create the straps of bag, take one of the 5″ x 20″ strip pieces.
Fold it in half, right side of fabric facing out and iron.

Open fold.
Fold each side towards just created center fold.
Iron in place.

Take both sides and fold together.
Iron into place.
Repeat for other strip.
Top stitch on both sides of strips.

To attach strap to bag, measure 5″ from side of bag.

Attach to inside of bag, pin and stitch a square for added strength.
Make sure straps are aligned with each other and are not looped.
Cut a piece of paper the size of the square and use it as guide to have uniform square stitches.

To attach the button, find center position and mark 1/2″ from top of bag.

Clover caulk pens are easy to use for all your marking needs.

Center button on marked line and mark on both sides of button.

Use buttonhole foot, marked as A. Buttonhole # 9 was selected for this type of fabric.

Cut open your buttonhole and make sure button goes through.
Attach button on inside of bag.

Attach button on inside of bag.

Bag is now ready for your final touches of decoration should you chose to add some.

Start of by removing any remaining pieces of the water soluble topper .

Add a few Swarovski Crystals or Rhinestones hot fix to bag.

Final touches:
Cut off any loose thread
Remove caulk markings

Bag is now complete.

Be proud! you just made a kid in Japan very happy.
Don’t forget, deadline to ship bags: December 8, 2011

For more details about ‘Dream 1000 Project’: www.artsandcraftsplaza.com/?p=689

 You can find: How To: Dream 1000 Project Bag – Part 1

Let’s create something!

Thanksgivings is fast approaching and with that spreading some goodwill.
Brother started a ‘Dream 1000 Project’ by requesting folks to make a bag to donate to the kids affected by the Tsunami and Earthquake in Japan.
Deadline to ship bags: December 8, 2011
For more details about this project: Dream 1000 Project

Are you a beginner sewer? Just want to check out how the bag is constructed before taking it on?
Let’s get started!

Suggested fabric: Denim or Quilting fabrics.
Start of by cutting your fabric to:
One 40″ x 20″
Two 5″ x 20″
Optional pocket, one 6″x 6″

As these bags are not lined, it is important to serge or overcast all raw edges of fabric.
For those without a serger, use a G foot and choose one of the overcast stitches.

Put your fabric against the metal part in the middle of your foot.
Use same color thread as your bobbin.
Suggested thread: Polyester Mettler.

How your raw edges of fabric should look like.

To create the pocket, we start by Embroidering it first.
Hoop a tear away stabilizer, use Spry adhesive to attach your 6″x 6″ piece of fabric.
On top of that put your water soluble topper with spry adhesive.

Embroider something you think the kid that will get this bag will appreciate.
Think about color combination and overall look of the bag.

Change the foot of your machine and select a straight stitch.
This straight stitch uses a J foot.
Experiment with a scrap of fabric first and then adjust width and length of the stitch.

Measure 1/2 an inch from top of pocket.

Fold to the back of pocket.
Iron in place for ease and better result.

Top stitch top of pocket.

Folder back other 3 sides of pocket 1/2″ and iron.
Find center position on front of bag and pin.

Stitch both sides and bottom of pocket to bag.

Should you have any marking on fabric like this fold on fabric on back side of the bag, it’s a chance to decorate.

Make a straight line mark with caulk on unwanted fold line.

Add a ribbon in matching or contrasting color.
You may want to add another piece of fabric instead of ribbon.
Top stitch ribbon on both sides to secure to fabric.

With right sides of fabric facing together, Stitch both sides of bag with 5/8″ seam allowance from edge of fabric.

Trim and access ribbon or any loose thread.

Iron open the side seams.

From top of bag fold towards the inside of bag 1 1/4″ and iron or pin.

Use straight or decorative stitch 1 1/4″ from top of bag.
This picture shows straight stitch.

To create depth to the bag, add a gusset.
At bottom side of bag, measure 1 1/2″ from corner and mark.
Mark other bottom side as well.

Stitch over line on both sides.

Turn bag right side out.
View of how gusset changed appearance of bag.

 You can find: How To: Dream 1000 Project Bag – Part 2

Let’s create something!

Came across this blog post at http://www.manycreativegifts.blogspot.com, enjoy!
It’s a great blog with lots of ideas and information.
With the holiday season coming, you are sure to want to create something for your family and friends.

Free Craft and Crochet eBooks

I’m so glad to be able to pass along two new and free ebooks from the FaveCrafts folks!
The first one has 17 popular crochet items that are easy enough for a beginner to make, like a fun little caplet, a bottoms up hat, and a really neat 8-point ripple afghan.
You can find the free and instant download at:
http://www.allfreecrochet.com/Miscellaneous-Crochet/17-Popular-Free-Crochet-Patterns-eBook

The second book will start to get you in the mood for the holidays.

This ebook has 7 fun craft projects for Christmas time.
I think I’m going to give the Christmas Card Saver a try!
Also included are the Felt and Wire Angel (pg. 5), the Christmas Candy Jar Labels (pg. 11), and a Wine Cork Wreath (pg. 19).
You can get this eBook free at:

http://www.allfreechristmascrafts.com/Christmas-Ornament-Crafts/7-Thrifty-Christmas-Craft-Ideas-eBook

Happy Crafting!!